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Twenty years ago, I visited the Aya Sofya in Istanbul. Why? Because I was a tourist in Istanbul, and that's what you do. So I bought my ticket with broken Turkish, wound my way inside, and I kid you not, upon seeing the architectural marvel that is the Hagia Sophia, thought: "Huh, big." I'm not proud of it, dear reader, but if you can't be honest in a blog post to the webosphere of strangers, where else can you be honest? Fast forward 20 years, and I go back to Istanbul with